Seabird Bonanza in Oman


We were looking for a beachside resort located in Oman within a reasonable distance from Seeb International Airport near Muscat. Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa about 35kms (45 minutes) south of Muscat appeared ideal and so it was. We were on a week’s R&R and as we are normally about 1000 miles from the ocean, I was keen to do some seawatching. For the uninitiated seawatching is a pastime that birders undertake having found a suitable perch on a promontory over looking the sea. You then simply watch to see what is moving over the waves. An onshore breeze is preferable and a headland is chosen in the hope that pelagic birds pass closer to land at that point. Seawatchers are normally a hardy bunch who brave the elements in search of their quarry. I have to admit my seawatching perch was a sun lounger on the manicured beachfront lawn of the Barr Al Jissah, a 5-star location for some 5-star birding.

Once I’d reassured other guests that my telescope and tripod were to be used to watch the numerous seabirds passing by all was well. During July and August a number of usually difficult pelagic species are relatively numerous off the Arabian Sea coast of Oman. Whilst I put a lot of hours into my seawatching during the week (about 45 hours) I did see some wonderful species. As Gary Player once said “The more practice I do, the luckier I get”. I suppose the same can be said for seawatching. The more hours you put in the more species you will see.

During the week I recorded 49 species around the resort (that we didn’t leave for the whole time). It might not sound a lot but it was a case of quality rather than quantity. It would be easy to use the resort as a base from which to explore some of the Sultanate of Oman’s superb birding areas. Around the hotel PALE CRAG MARTIN used the building as they would cliffs. In the gardens were HUME’S WHEATEAR, GRACEFUL PRINIA, PURPLE SUNBIRD and INDIAN ROLLER. RED-WATTLED LAPWING used the lawns. In the jebel around the resort we found a pair of SHORT-TOED SNAKE EAGLE and many GREY FRANCOLIN. A few INDIAN SILVERBILL fed in the roadside vegetation. The grounds were also home to RED-VENTED BULBUL and WHITE-SPECTACLED BULBUL.

However, we had come to see seabirds and what a collection we acquired. It seemed bizarre to watch WILSON’S STORM PETREL from a sunbed in 30 degrees of heat but we did. Not one but four RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD were recorded and single FLESH-FOOTED SHEARWATER were seen on a daily basis. On one day there was a steady trickle of POMARINE SHUA passing by and a few of their more slender cousins, the ARCTIC SKUA. We were also lucky enough to see an adult LONG-TAILED SKUA with its extremely long tail intact.

We saw two JOUANIN’S PETREL, a species about which so little is know. PERSIAN SHEARWATER were seen on a daily basis including one that settled on the water close to shore for a few minutes. One BROWN BOOBY was recorded but we had to wait until our last day before an adult MASKED BOOBY put in a most welcome appearance. We saw a good collection of terns. The most common were the WHITE-CHEEKED TERN that constantly passed by all day and many directly over the beach. GREATER CRESTED TERN (or SWIFT TERN) were numerous fishing offshore and were joined by BRIDLED TERN occasionally. We recorded four GULL-BILLED TERN in their brilliant white plumage and on one day there appeared to be a southerly passage of COMMON TERN. A couple of CASPIAN TERN were added to our collection and several LESSER CRESTED TERN were also on the list. We saw a few of what were probably SAUNDER’S TERN but they do look very like LITTLE TERN. However, the best of all was an adult BROWN NODDY. Gulls were not numerous but we did see SOOTY GULL, CASPIAN GULL, HEUGLIN’S GULL and a few BLACK-HEADED GULL.

Other species recorded included the daily appearance of a fishing WESTERN OSPREY, COMMON SANDPIPER, EURASIAN CURLEW, COMMON GREENSHANK. STRIATED HERON used the rocks at the edge of the beach from which to fish and were joined by a GREY HERON and two WESTERN REEF HERON on separate days. We would thoroughly recommend the Barr Al Jissah Resort as a birding base. The management are aware of the wildlife that shares the area and go to great lengths to look after the Green and Hawksbill Turtles that lay their eggs on the resort beach. We would like to extend our gratitude to all of the staff who facilitated such a fantastic holiday. The breakfasts really are amazing! Sadly, the photographers were elsewhere.

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